Gozo’s towns and villages are picturesque and tranquil; here life has barely changed for hundreds of years and many traditions are still upheld. These towns are spaced out, detached by countryside and built around the central church or ‘pjazza’ – the hub of village life. Tourists and visitors will be welcomed by the locals and encouraged to enjoy the gems that each town has to offer.
Fontana, a suburb of Victoria, took its name from a bountiful spring at the bottom of the road leading to Xlendi. People began to inhabit the area because of the abundance of fresh water here. In the 16th century, an arched shelter was built over the spring for the convenience as people flocked there to wash their clothes. Most Xlendi fishermen lived in Fontana and in the late 19th century the proceeds from their catches were used to raise a parish church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus.
Ghajnsielem, just off Mgarr offers excellent views of the channel. The town boasts the derelict chapel of Saint Cecilia, the oldest chapel in Gozo. It also houses the Gozo Heritage, a historical re-creation of the momentous episodes of seven thousand years of Gozo life, from prehistory to recent times.
Gharb is the westernmost village in Gozo. On the road from Victoria to Gharb there is an aqueduct built by the British in the early 1840s to carry water from Ghar Ilma to Rabat. Just before you approach the village a road forks right to the Shrine of Blessed Virgin of Ta'Pinu. This monumental shrine was built between 1920 and 1931 and is well worth a visit. The shrine was built after a young country woman, Elizabeth, received a message for prayer from the Virgin Mary. Today it is an impressive church with a conjoined museum. The parish church of Gharb is one of the most architecturally perfect churches of Gozo and was based on the designs of Francesco Borromini’s Sant’ Agnese in Piazza Novana, Rome. It is dedicated to the Visitation of the Virgin Mary to Elizabeth.
Ghasri is the smallest village in Gozo and it is dominated by a lighthouse on Gordan hill. Gordan lighthouse, rising 180 metres above sea level, was inaugurated in1853. Its beam can be seen up to 50 kilometres away. Ghasri’s village church was built in the early twentieth century and is dedicated to Christ the Saviour. Other chapels in Ghasri include St. Publius Chapel, the rural chapel dedicated to the Patronage of Our Lady.
Kercem is the village closest to Rabat and its name is probably derived from that of a family living in the area in the 15th century. This fertile valley is one of the most picturesque in Gozo and it is further embellished by a charming spring dating back to 1698. A traditional procession used to wind its way from the cathedral in the Citadel to the parish church of Kercem, on 12 March, the feast of Pope Gregory the Great, to whom the parish is dedicated together with the Virgin Mary of Perpetual Succour. Before marriage, Gozitan bridegrooms used to promise their brides that they would take them to this procession every year.
Santa Lucija is a suburb of Kercem and takes its name from an old chapel dedicated to Saint Lucy, recorded as early as 1575. The present parish church, dedicated to the same Saint, is invoked by those who have problems with their eyesight.
Marsalforn is Gozo’s most popular seaside resort. Up until the seventeenth century, before the development of Mgarr Harbour, Marsalforn was the principal seaport of Gozo. This area is well served with hotels, apartments, restaurants, bars, as well as diving and water sports clubs. Then a festive atmosphere prevails with people relaxing over al fresco meals, and meeting friends on the promenade for walks and talks. A scenic promenade leads from Marsalforn to Qbajjar and Xwejni where a number of saltpans dating from Roman times are still in use.
Munxar, a suburb of Sannat, lies on the very southern tip of Rabat. The church of Munxar is dedicated to St. Paul’s Shipwreck. Beyond the church, a road leads to Ras il-Bajjada and then to Xlendi. The area offers visitors breathtaking views over the open sea and is ideal for relaxing walks.
Nadur is spread over the top of a tale-flat hill. The monumental church of the Saints Peter and Paul was begun in 1760, however the façade and aisles were built later, at the beginning of the 20th century. The church is entirely covered in marble and has also a pulpit sculpted in marble. Nadur is famed for the grotesque and impromptu Carnival which takes place here in February of each year.
Qala is the easternmost village of Gozo and its name means ‘sheltered harbour’. The main street passes through the village square and on towards the bays of iz-Zriezaq and Hondoq ir-Rummien. On the way to these two bays, one finds the Sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary. This church houses one of the best paintings in Gozo, an oil on canvas of the Conception by Federico Barocci di Urbino. This chapel is one of the oldest in Gozo. The parish church of Qala is dedicated to St. Joseph and was built between 1882 and 1889, in the baroque style.
San Lawrenz takes its name from an old chapel that stood in the area from around 1575. The village church, dedicated to Saint Lawrence, was built between 1888 and 1897, on the site of the old chapel. San Lawrence houses the Gozo Crafts Village. From the village square one can take the road down to Dwejra Bay where there is a chapel dedicated to St. Anne. Also in Dwejra is a well preserved watch tower dating back to 1652, built to guard the then famous medicinal plant which grew on Fungus Rock. This is one of the towers that the Knights of St. John erected during the 17th century. Most of these towers survive.
Sannat lies to the south of the island. The village church of Sannat is dedicated to St. Margaret Martyr and building began in 1718. Besides the excellent views of the countryside and the sea, the area boasts a great variety of wild plants and several prehistoric remains. The most prominent is L-Imramma Temple, a primitive kind of temple made up of an oval court with a series of more oval rooms to the north.
Xaghra rises on a hill in the central northeast of Gozo. The parish of church is dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, locally known as ‘The Victory’. The church’s main attraction is a beautiful statue of the young Virgin Mary, brought from Marseilles in 1878. On the village approach, one finds the Ggantija Temples and about half a kilometre to the north of the temples, there is the Stone circle, an underground cemetery of the temple builders. The site was first excavated in the early 1990s, but it has since been covered for protection. Just off the Ggantija Temples one can visit Ta'Kola Windmill. Built in 1725 and named after an early miller, this windmill is still in good working condition. During the Axis blockade of the Second World War, the mill was put to good use saving many from starvation.
Xewkija is famed for its rotunda church and it takes its name from a place where thistles grow. The parish church dome, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, was completed in 1981 and was paid for by the 3,500 villagers. It boasts the fourth largest supported dome in the world. The dome is 74 metres high, with a diameter of 27 metres and a circumference of 85 metres. Its total weight is calculated to be around 45,000 tonnes. Xewkija is bustling village. It includes Gozo’s industrial zone where factories produce a number of articles for local use and for export. At weekends, the road that leads from Xewkija to Rabat, is thronged by football fans intent on an afternoon’s entertainment at the adjacent football stadium.
Xlendi is a typical fishing village and a popular summer resort. It takes its name from a type of Byzantine vessel that used to shelter in this port. Wedged between majestic cliffs, Xlendi is the most picturesque fishing village in Gozo. Before the present high rise buildings, constructed since the 1960’s, a white statue of the apostle Saint Andrew, patron saint of fishermen, reigned over the port. It still dominates the little harbour where fishing boats create a colourful collection. Xlendi is a main summer resort. Restaurants line the seafront and the little bay is consistently busy. Diving centres, hotels and a couple of clubs are also found here.
Zebbug is perched on a hill to the north of Gozo. It takes its name from the Maltese word for ‘olives’. The village is built on two adjoining hills, from where panoramic views of the Gozitan countryside and the Mediterranean Sea can be enjoyed. The village church of Zebbug is dedicated to Santa Marija. The locals are known for their high quality lace, weaving and woollen blankets. The villagers are very proud of their religious heritage, as can be judged from the priority given to the maintenance of street niches. The best is that of Our Mother of Mercy.
Mgarr Harbour the gateway to Gozo is Mgarr Harbour, also referred to as Mgarr, the only other point of entry being the heliport at Ghajnsielem. As the Gozo ferry approaches Mgarr Harbour and its gangway is lowered, one is immediately enthralled by the breathtaking charm of Gozo’s link to the outside world. On one side Fort chambray, built by the Knights of St. John in 1749, majestically and defiantly guards the harbour from its vantage point, while the church dedicated to Our Lady of Lourdes is a prominent landmark overlooking the harbour. To the right, the terraced fields slope gently down to the sea. To this day, Mgarr harbour is still the most important fishing base and provides the best winter shelter for the island’s fishing boats, while the adjacent marina hosts pleasure sea craft throughout he year. Beyond the harbour the other towns, villages and attractions of Gozo are just silently waiting to be discovered.
Victoria is known to one and all as Rabat, meaning suburb, as this city developed as the suburb of the citadel. The name of Victoria was given to the town in 1887, in honour of Queen Victoria in her jubilee year. Victoria is the capital of Gozo, which lies precisely in the centre of the island and is the most populated town. It is the administrative centre, which includes also the main schools, the hospital, and the law courts, serving the island’s community. Its main square is Pjazza Indipendenza, popularly known as it-Tokk. The main building on the square is the Banca Giuratale, built between1733-38, formerly the seat of the municipal government of Gozo and presently of the Victoria Local council. An open market is held every morning in this square and several open air cafes are also found here.
Republic Street is Victoria’s main street, flanked by shops, banks, theatres, restaurants, Police Headquarters, the Bishop’s chancery and il-Mall or Rundle Gardens. These gardens were laid out by the British in 1910 and house a variety of local and imported trees, an oasis of peace in the centre of the busy town. Just off the main square in the very heart of the old town, one finds the medieval parish church of St. George Martyr, referred to as the marble basilica, as it is entirely covered in marble. The present basilica was rebuilt by its supporters after the destruction by an earthquake in 1693. It has a profusely gilded interior and very impressive is the bronze and gilded canopy over the high altar. The main attraction is a statue of the patron Saint, St. George, sculpted in wood in 1838. An interesting chapel, among the many that are found in Victoria, is the 19th century chapel dedicated to Saint Martha, built in 1859. During winter months, Victoria bustles with activity from sun rise to sun set. Shoppers and friends mill around its main streets and quaint side roads, greeting each other, stopping to chat and catch up with the local gossip. In summer, however it quietens down as most people seek sea breezes in the popular summer resorts. From Victoria roads radiate in the four directions towards the villages of Gozo.
Citadel the ancient citadel is situated in Victoria and has been aptly called the crown of Gozo. It was the centre of activity possibly since Neolithic times but it became the focal point of Gozo around 1500 Bc, when it was first fortified by the Bronze Age people. The Phoenicians developed it further and the Romans turned it into their acropolis dominated by a temple dedicated to Juno. The north side of the present fortifications date from the times of the Aragonese, while the southern flank, overlooking Victoria, was raised by the Knights of St. John Between 1599 and 1603.
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A visit to the citadel is a must and the fatigue of going up the hill is fully rewarded. From the fortifications there is a superb view all around the horizon with vistas over the tiny fields cut by yellow stone walls, domes of village churches rising from clusters of houses and the Gordan Lighthouse. The number of inhabitants in the citadel is less than ten and half the place lie in archaeological ruins which are continuously being restored. This results from an exodus in the 17th century to more spacious houses in Victoria. In the other half there is the Gozo cathedral and the Law courts, as well as the cathedral Museum, the Gozo Museum of Archaeology, the Folklore Museum, the Natural History Museum and the Old Prisons. The most impressive of all is the cathedral, dedicated to Santa Marija, the Assumption. A centuries-old belief, partly proved archaeologically, noted that a temple to Juno that had existed within the acropolis was rededicated by the early christians to the Blessed Virgin Mary. When the present building was raised between 1697 and 1711, remains of this temple were discovered in abundance.
The cathedral is a fine baroque structure in the form of a Latin cross and is built entirely of the local limestone on a plan by the Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafa’. Instead of bell towers, a tall campanile with five bells is attached to the north east side. The interior is very graceful and well-proportioned. A flat ceiling in perspective closes the aperture of the dome. This ingenious painting, raised in place in 1739, is one of the cathedral’s major attractions and is so convincing that many visitors have to be persuaded that it is not, indeed, a real dome. The other attraction is the statue of Santa Marija, the Assumption, undertaken in Rome in 1897. The statue of the Madonna was embellished with a diamond necklace, a gold belt and a solid silver plinth donated by Gozitans who emigrated to the New World and made good. On 15th August, it is taken shoulder-high in a procession around the streets of Victoria.